North.

Before this trip, I was asked many times where we were going for vacation. Minnesota, I’d say.  And the response was always the same: Minne-SO-da? Why  Minne-SO-da?  Well, because:  North.

South Carolina in summer is hot.  North in summer is good. 

So I made plans for the four of us (husband and two dogs) to take Elvis the Motor Coach to Minnesota in July.  In researching places to see, I discovered that there were two national parks within reach.  Although technically in Michigan, we could reach Isle Royale National Park in the middle of Lake Superior from Grand Portage, MN.  And Voyageurs National Park on the border of Canada also looked enticing.  The bones of the trip were in place.

So I set up a chart and started making detailed plans: date, destination, travel time, reservation info…I had it all covered.  I even found a kennel for our dogs while we were on a day trip to Isle Royale.

Our route

My plans were indeed “best-laid.”  Too much so, in fact.  (More on that later.)  I learned a lot on this trip.

Lesson #1:  THINGS HAPPEN.  BE FLEXIBLE.  The day before we were to set out, one of our dogs tore a tendon in her knee.  Shae had just recovered from surgery to her other knee, so we knew what this meant.  No trip for her and expensive surgery when we returned.  We called our daughter Christa, who agreed without hesitation to keep Shae with her until we got back.  Problem solved.

7.7.22

Lesson #2: DON’T RELY ON GPS TRAVEL TIME WHEN TRAVELING IN A MOTOR COACH WITH A DOG.  We learned this one fast.  Day One of travel took us to Indian Mountain State Park in Jellico, Tennessee.  (The song from the musical Cats kept playing in my mind for some reason.)  GPS said we’d be there in 5 hours and 45 minutes.  Ha.  Nine hours, more like it.  Two reasons for the GPS miscalculation: we tend to drive the speed limit in this hunking big vehicle (just a Class C, but still huge), and we had to stop frequently to fill up with gas and give our other dog Pip a break.

Downtown Jellico, with a ghostly Elvis sighting in the window

7.8.22-7.10.22

Lesson #3: STATE PARKS UP NORTH MAY HAVE SITES WITH ELECTRICITY, BUT DON’T COUNT ON WATER.  Apparently, their winters are much colder than in South Carolina, and pipes tend to freeze.  Whodda thunk?  After one night at Kickapoo State Park in Illinois (which, like the previous state park, had been reclaimed land from a strip coal mine) and the next two nights at Mill Bluff State Park in Wisconsin, that idea finally sunk in.  Had we planned ahead, we would have filled our water tank.  As it was, we spent a “Zero Day” (a day without travel) at Mill Bluff, where the only water source was an ancient water pump that spewed oily orange water.  But hey, we didn’t get sick and now have no problems with iron-poor blood. 

Mill Bluff had no showers, so a dip in the pond had to suffice

Mill Bluff’s claim to fame is some interesting rock formations (mesas, buttes, and pinnacles) that were islands back when a huge glacial lake covered this land.  It also has a billion biting flies.  Welcome to the North.  To escape the flies, we explored the National Guard Museum in nearby Camp Douglas and then stopped in town where we picked up some pumpkin bread and rhubarb pudding at a farmer’s market.  It’s amazing how sweets can make you feel better.

The climb to the top of Long Bluff was not for the faint-hearted.

Castle Rock

The view from the top of Long Bluff. Just add water to see the “islands.”

witch hazel cone gall aphid

milkweed

chicken of the woods

common soapwort

creeping bell flower

7.11.22

Lesson #4: FAMILY HISTORY DETOURS CAN BE FUN.  FOR SOME OF US, ANYWAY.  Perusing the old-school paper map that I had picked up at the AAA office before leaving town, I noticed that we’d be traveling through Rockford, Illinois on the way from Kickapoo to Mill Bluff.  My mother was born in the small farming community of Kishwaukee southwest of Rockford, and my father was from the tiny town of Harlem, just northeast of Rockford.  Wouldn’t it be fun to try to find these places?  And maybe we could even find the cemetery where many of my relatives were buried!  So, not knowing anything but the place names, we went off script.  And guess what?  We found the Kishwaukee Cemetery, where right off I found my great-aunt and uncle’s tombstones.  Names from family lore kept popping up: Bucey, Kingsbury, and a slew of Hoisingtons.  Yet not until I texted with my cousin for directions did I find my grandparents’ graves, along with my cousin’s parents.  My ever-loving husband did a great job of not rolling his eyes at my excitement; there’s just something really heart-warming about finding your roots in a peaceful country cemetery.   We never did find Harlem.

My father’s grandparents

My mother’s parents

7.12.22-7.15.22

Lesson #5: RESERVATIONS HAVE A TENDENCY TO LOCK YOU IN TO AN ITINERARY.  WE COULD HAVE SPENT ALL SUMMER ON MINNESOTA’S NORTH SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR.  As it was, five days was not nearly long enough.  We spent two days at Gooseberry Falls State Park in Minnesota.  No electricity or water at the campsite, but hot showers were available at a brand new bathhouse, and we were able to fill up our water tank with clean fresh water.   The temperature was in the 60s during the day and 50s at night, and the skies were as blue and clean as the water.  Heaven. 

The trail from the campsite led me lemming-like to the lakeshore, where basalt rock dropped off into the crystal-clear water.  Apparently, about a billion years ago, our continent started to pull apart, forming the Midcontinent Rift System in which molten lava (is there any other kind?) spurted out in plumes covering a vast region, which just happened to be where I was standing.  I’m glad I wasn’t there to witness that event, because I’d now be really really old or maybe even dead, but it must have been quite the spectacle.  Just down from this area was a pebble beach, where I was given a lesson in agate identification by a native Minnesotan. The result of this is that I now have a small handful of rocks that may or may not be agates.  But probably not.

Who could resist a path like this?

Orange hawkweed: invasive but still beautiful

Herring gulls

The pools were filled with tadpoles at the Picnic Flow area

The next day being a Zero Day, we loaded up our backpacks with food and water and headed up the trail by the Gooseberry River.  We admired the spectacular waterfalls roaring through the rocky gorge, although I will say that their tourism department should come up with more enticing names: Lower Falls, Middle Falls, Upper Falls, and Fifth Falls.  Did you notice that there were no Fourth Falls?  Me too.  But I will say that they did a good job making the color of the water more palatable:  due to the tannins in the water, during normal flow it is described as root beer water; during rainy weather it becomes chocolate milk. 

Wildflowers made it hard for me to keep up with Brian and Pip; too much dadgum beauty to absorb. 

red columbine

red columbine

Canada anemone

I’m a sucker for milkweed!

willow pinecone gall midge

bellflower

Back at the campsite, I sat outside reading in the cool evening air and was kept entertained by a red squirrel, a chipmunk, and a ground squirrel who obviously thought they had reserved the same site.

Somehow, these little red squirrels are so much more photogenic than our grey squirrels.

Lesson #6:  SOMETIMES PEACE AND QUIET ARE WORTH MORE THAN WATER AND ELECTRICITY.  The next day we had reservations at the Grand Marais Recreation Area.  I was looking forward to having water and electricity at our site, although I must say we did just fine without it at Gooseberry Falls.  But we’d be there for three nights, so even though it was twice as expensive as a state park, I figured it would be worth the splurge. 

We had plenty of time before check-in, so we stopped off at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, where we explored the misty coast line before investigating the lighthouse itself.  From there, we headed a little further up the road to Tettegouche State Park, where we hiked to Two Step Falls and High Falls on the Baptism River.  Once again, I regretted not having worn shoes or clothes I could get in the water with. 

Split Rock Lighthouse

Crystal-clear waters of Lake Superior, as seen from the lighthouse

This peregrine falcon was announcing his presence loudly near the lighthouse

High Falls at Tettegouche

On we went to our campground at Grand Marais Recreation Area.  To say it was packed tighter than sardines would be an understatement.  Apparently, we weren’t the only connoisseurs of comfort.  Several feet away on one side of us was a family of indeterminate size: toddlers, smallish children, adults of all ages…to get an accurate count was impossible.  But at least, we had an empty site on the other side.  Until we didn’t.  After coming back the next day from exploring the calming wilderness of Isle Royale, we discovered some neighbors had moved in to our empty buffer space with their huge fifth-wheel camper.  To our dismay, their slide opened up such that sitting at our picnic table, we were inches away from their kitchen.  To make matters worse, that evening the youngest member of the familial assemblage on the other side was unhappy.  Very unhappy.  For almost an hour, adults of all ages tried to appease him as he screeched and wailed and screamed his displeasure.  Never, however, did they take him inside where at least the thin walls of their camper would dim the din.  Finally, they sat him in a chair where he continued his rant alone while the parental units (and I use the term loosely) went elsewhere.  Finally, 10:00 pm came:  quiet hour.  As we drifted off to sleep, rhythmic thuds brought us back to reality.  Our neighbors had decided this was the time to chop wood.

We were done.  The next morning, as we headed out for an exploration of the area, we stopped at the office where we requested a change of address.  Which they did, and as an added bonus, the staff  promised to have a word with our noisy neighbors.

Lesson #7: SOMETIMES THE BEST PLEASURES IN LIFE ARE FREE.  AND SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO PAY FOR THEM.  BUT REGARDLESS, THEY ARE PRICELESS.  Visiting national parks is a no-brainer for me.  They have to be pretty darn unique to be classified as a national park, so I’d be a fool to pass up one so close.  Which is why I was intent of getting to Isle Royale National Park.  But being an island in the middle of Lake Superior, the only way to get there was by boat or plane.  And dogs were not allowed, so that meant finding a kennel for the day.  But I like to remind my husband that he once said, “It’s only money.” 

So I booked us on a ferry and our dog in a kennel, we crossed our fingers for good weather, and we set out early one morning on the Sea Hunter II from Grand Portage, MN for the 1 ½ hour trip to Isle Royale.  The day was perfect: cloudless and cool.  Maybe a bit too cool, as we had taken seats on the outer deck and soon discovered why the ferry line recommended warm clothes for the crossing.  We were amused by a crew member with an uncanny resemblance to Captain Ahab.  We listened intently as the boat drew near to the so-called “Spirit Tree” and “Captain Ahab” told the story of this stunted white cedar growing out of a rock that has served as Minnesota’s oldest living landmark for some 400+ years. This bonsai-like tree, nourished only by the minerals in the water, is held sacred by the Ojibwe people.

Soon enough, we were on Isle Royale at the Windigo area, shucking our warm clothes and preparing to explore as much of this 850 square mile national park as we could in four hours.  (Spoiler alert: not much.) Isle Royale is sometimes referred to as the “eye” of Lake Superior but is not so much an island as an archipelago, or chain of about 400 islands.  What makes it special is its isolated wilderness.  The longest consecutive predator-prey study ever done is on-going here, focusing on the relationship between wolves, moose, beaver, and vegetation.   With only a few hours to explore this natural wonderland, we contented ourselves to hiking to the Grace Creek overlook, hoping to see moose but not take part in any predator-prey event.  Alas, there were no moose to be seen, although we did see evidence of their large digestive system on the trail.  Nevertheless, I delighted in the plant life and even caught sight of the elusive Carolinianas Gnomus peeking out of stumps and rocks.

“Captain Ahab”

400+ yr. old Spirit Tree

Rock of Ages Lighthouse

Rock of Ages Lighthouse

Grace Creek Overlook

Moose poop

Spotted Coralroot orchid with Bluebead lily

spotted coralroot

Hoof fungus

Caroliniana Gnomus

Lady slipper with bunchberries

Me tree

Back on the mainland, we picked up Pip at the kennel, and although she had been well cared for, she was ever so glad to see us. As a penance for her confinement, we took her for a walk around the Grand Marais harbor, scouting out the many trails on a narrow spit of rock known as Artists’ Point and walking along the narrow breakwater to the lighthouse.

The next day, after ascertaining a change in campsites, we set out to explore more of the area. We drove a short way up the road to Judge C.R. Magney State Park, where we hiked along the Brule River to the aptly named Devil’s Kettle, a double waterfall with one channel crossing through a rock tunnel to join the other. 

Just a few of the hundreds we climbed

Bee-mimic beetle on an oxeye daisy

Pictures don’t do it justice!

That afternoon we pulled over by the shore of Lake Superior to check out a pebble beach.  This time I changed into my bathing suit, determined to not waste this chance to get in the water (one of the advantages of driving your house around is that you always have a change of clothes).   Google tells me that Lake Superior shoreline water temperature in July ranges between the 50s and 60s, but I really think their thermometers are broken.  It was much much colder than that!  But I got in and swam around for an hour or so.  Just kidding.  I went in, dunked myself, and got out fast before I would freeze into a solid chunk of ice. 

What happened next ranked as one of my favorite experiences on this whole trip.  I laid down on the beach, the sun-warmed pebbles conforming to my body like a memory-foam mattress.  My chilled body relaxed as I was treated to a hot-rock massage with much better scenery than any high-end salon.  And this was free.

And with that bit of kinesthetic imagery, I declare these lessons over for the day. 

Class dismissed.